The Process — Tannery To Bench
From Hide
Follow one goat hide through five stages and roughly nine weeks — from the tanning pits to a signed, numbered jacket. Filmed at the tannery and at our bench in Hackney.
“People ask why a jacket takes nine weeks. I ask them why theirs only lasted two winters. Watch the film — then you’ll know where the time goes.”
— G. Rourke
Founder · Master Cutter
the grain never lies — read it before you cut ↑
01
The Goat Hide
Every jacket begins as a single full-grain goat hide, selected by hand for tight grain and honest scars. We reject nine hides for every one we buy — the film shows what we look for.
Week 0 · Sourced, Iberia
02
The Tannery
Thirty days in oak and chestnut pits at an LWG gold-rated tannery in Tuscany. Vegetable tanning is slow and stubborn — and it is the only way leather learns to age instead of rot.
Weeks 1–5 · Tuscany
↑ thirty days in the pits. no shortcuts, no chrome.
chalk, shears, and nerve — you get one cut per hide
03
The Cut
Panels are chalked and cut by hand, read against the grain so the jacket moves with your shoulders. No press, no die — a cutter’s knife and fifteen years of knowing where scars belong.
Week 6 · Hackney Bench
04
The Stich
Forty hours of saddle stitching — two needles, waxed linen, zero machines. If one stitch fails, the seam holds. That is why the seam outlives the wearer, and why we film it in real time.
Weeks 7–8 · Hackney Bench
↑ two needles, one seam, forty hours
05
Signed. Numbered.
Registered For Life.
Week nine: the cutter signs the lining, the jacket is numbered in the house ledger, and its lifetime repair record is opened. The jacket leaves; the relationship doesn’t.
Words From The Founder
“A machine can put a hundred stitches where I put one. Mine will still be holding when the machine’s are dust. That’s not romance — that’s engineering.”
— G. Rourke
Founder · Master Cutter · Est. 2014
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